How to Clean Your Log Home (Without Ruining It)

Published on | Log home cleaning Media blasting log cabin pH balance wood Pressure washing logs Removing mill glaze | Jim McCain

Cleaning a log home is not like washing vinyl siding. Vinyl is inert plastic; wood is organic. It absorbs water, reacts to chemicals, and if you hit it with too much pressure, it "fuzzes" like a peach.

Yet, cleaning is non-negotiable. Pollen acts as food for mold. Dirt holds moisture against the grain. If you don't clean your logs, your stain will fail prematurely.

The method you choose depends entirely on your goal: Are you doing a Maintenance Wash (Spring Cleaning) or a Restoration Prep (Stripping old stain)?

Here is the professional guide to cleaning your logs safely.

Scenario A: The "Maintenance Wash" (Annual)

Goal: Remove pollen, dust, and spider webs without damaging the existing stain.

If your stain is in good shape, do not use high pressure. You just want to wash the surface, not strip it.

The Protocol:

  1. The Solution: Mix Log Wash (or a gentle, pH-balanced wood cleaner) with water. Avoid dish soap (leaves a film) and never use Chlorine Bleach (destroys wood fibers).

  2. The Application (Crucial): Apply the cleaning solution from the BOTTOM UP.

    • Why? If you spray cleaner at the top of a dry, dirty wall, it runs down in narrow rivulets. These "clean streaks" soak into the dry wood and are impossible to blend out. By wetting the wall from the bottom up, you ensure even coverage.

  3. The Agitation: Use a soft-bristle car wash brush to gently scrub the logs.

  4. The Rinse: Rinse with a garden hose from the TOP DOWN, chasing the dirt to the ground.

Scenario B: The "Restoration Prep" (Removing Old Finish)

Goal: Remove "Mill Glaze," old peeling stain, or gray UV-damaged wood.

If you are applying new stain, you need a fresh surface. You have three options to get down to bare wood.

Option 1: Chemical Stripping & Pressure Washing

This is the most common DIY method.

  • The Process: Apply a wood stripper/restorer (like Wood ReNew) to break down the old finish. Rinse it off with a pressure washer.

  • The Warning: Respect the PSI. Keep pressure between 500 and 1500 PSI. If you go higher or get closer than 12 inches, you will "fuzz" the wood, requiring you to sand the entire house to fix the texture.

  • The Pro Tip (pH Balancing): Chemical strippers are alkaline (High pH). Wood needs to be neutral (pH 6-8) for stain to stick. After stripping, check the wood with a pH Strip. If it's too high, apply a brightener (acid) to neutralize the wood before staining.

Option 2: Media Blasting (Corn Cob or Glass)

This is the "Waterless Wash." It uses compressed air to blast crushed corn cobs or recycled glass at the wood.

  • Pros: No water means no drying time. You can stain immediately. It removes old stain perfectly and texturizes the wood for excellent adhesion.

  • Cons: Requires expensive equipment (usually hired out to pros).

  • Best For: Removing thick, stubborn paint or varnish that chemical strippers can't dissolve.

Option 3: Sanding (The Hard Way)

Sanding is low-tech but effective.

  • The Grit: Use 60-80 grit sandpaper. Anything smoother (100+) closes the wood pores, preventing the stain from soaking in.

  • Best For: Removing "Mill Glaze" on new logs or smoothing out "fuzz" caused by aggressive pressure washing.

4 Rules to Live By

1. Check the Moisture Content

You cannot stain wet logs. If you use water to clean, you must let the home dry for 3-5 days.

  • The Test: Buy a Moisture Meter ($30). Stick the pins into the wood. If it reads 18% or less, you are green-lit to stain. If it's 20%+, wait.

2. Rinse Until You Think You're Done, Then Rinse Again

Chemical residue is the #1 cause of stain failure. If you leave cleaner on the wall, the new stain will not bond. Rinse until the water runs completely clear and shows no soap bubbles.

3. Avoid the "Checks"

While washing, avoid blasting water directly into the "checks" (cracks) in the logs. You don't want to drive water deep into the center of the log where it will take months to dry.

4. Protect Your Plants

Log cleaning chemicals can burn your landscaping. Always wet down your bushes and grass with fresh water before you start cleaning. This creates a barrier so the chemicals slide off the leaves. Rinse them again when you are finished.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use Bleach to kill mold?

Avoid Chlorine Bleach. It destroys the lignin (wood glue) and turns logs gray. Instead, use an Oxygen Bleach (Sodium Percarbonate) cleaner, which fizzes and lifts dirt without damaging the wood structure.

How do I remove Mill Glaze?

Mill Glaze is a hard, shiny shell on new logs caused by the heat of the milling blade. Stain will peel right off it. You must break this glaze by Sanding (60-80 grit) or using an aggressive chemical wash before staining.

Clean logs are happy logs. Whether you are doing a spring scrub or a full restoration, doing it right protects your investment.

Shop Log Cleaning & Restoration Supplies ➝