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3 Dangerous Myths About Log Home Chinking (Busted)
If you ask three different builders about chinking, you might get three different answers.
"My logs are tight; I don't need it."
"Just use mortar; it's cheaper."
"Skip the backer rod; it's a waste of time."
This misinformation is dangerous. It leads to drafty homes, high energy bills, and—worst of all—product failure.
At Weatherall, we have seen thousands of log homes. The ones that fail are almost always the ones that believed the wrong advice. Here are the three most persistent myths about chinking, and the truth that will save your investment.
Myth #1: "My logs fit tight, so I don't need chinking."
The Theory: If you have a "Swedish Cope" or "Full Scribe" home where the logs are cut to fit perfectly on top of each other, you assume there are no gaps to seal.
The Reality: Wood moves forever.
Even the most perfectly scribed log will shrink as it dries. A 10-foot wall of pine logs can settle (shrink) by 2 to 4 inches in the first few years.
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The "Micro-Gap": When logs shrink, tiny hairline cracks open up between the courses. You might not see them, but air and water can feel them.
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The Energy Cost: These micro-gaps create a vacuum that sucks in cold air. Studies show that a properly chinked home can reduce heating and cooling costs by up to 30%.
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The Fix: Even "tight" homes need a bead of sealant. Use Textured Caulk (for gaps < 1 inch) to create a flexible gasket that stops the drafts.
Myth #2: "I can just use Silicone or Mortar."
The Theory: "My grandfather used mortar," or "I'll just buy a case of silicone caulk from the hardware store to save money."
The Reality: Rigid seals fail.
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Why Mortar Fails: Cement is rigid. Wood is flexible. When the log moves, the bond breaks. The mortar cracks, allowing water behind it.
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Why Silicone Fails: Silicone is shiny (looks like plastic) and eventually peels. Once it peels, you cannot chink over it because nothing sticks to silicone. You have to grind it all off.
The Fix: You need an Elastomeric sealant.
Triple Stretch Chinking is engineered to stretch and compress like a rubber band. It chemically bonds to the wood fibers, ensuring that when the log twists, the seal twists with it instead of tearing. It lasts for decades, not seasons.
Myth #3: "I don't need Backer Rod (It's just extra foam)."
The Theory: Many DIYers skip the foam Backer Rod to save time, thinking, "I'll just fill the whole crack with chinking. More product is better, right?"
The Reality: This guarantees failure.
Chinking needs to stretch. For it to stretch, it must adhere to only two points: the top log and the bottom log.
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The "Three-Point" Failure: If you fill a deep crack without Backer Rod, the chinking sticks to the top log, the bottom log, and the back of the crack. When the logs move, the chinking cannot stretch because it is glued to the back. It snaps.
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The Solution: Grip Strip Backer Rod acts as a bond breaker. The chinking does not stick to the foam. This leaves the middle of the bead free to stretch like a rubber band.
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Bonus: It saves you money by filling the void with cheap foam instead of expensive chinking.
Chinking vs. Caulking: Which Do I Need?
This is the #1 question we get. Both are sealants, but they serve different purposes.
Frequently Asked Questions
Does chinking look "old fashioned"?
It doesn't have to. While the classic "White Chink" look is popular, Weatherall offers a range of earth tones (Tan, Brown, Stone). If you match the chinking color to your stain color, the seal becomes virtually invisible, giving you a modern, monochromatic look with full protection.
Can I apply chinking myself?
Yes. With the right tools—specifically a Bulk Loading Gun—applying chinking is a straightforward DIY project. The gun makes it easy to run a smooth bead, and a stainless steel trowel helps you feather the edges for a professional finish.
Don't build a failure.
Use the right system. Backer Rod + Triple Stretch Chinking = A permanent seal.
